DOLAC MALTA SARAJEVO guide

Street Art in Dolac Malta, Sarajevo © John Bills

What do you get if you combine Dolac and Malta? Dolac Malta! Huzzah! Another residential neighbourhood in the wilds of Novo Sarajevo, Dolac Malta is indeed two spots joined by the power of Paromlinska. According to an article by Sarajevo Times, Malta takes its name from a customs office established during the brief Austro-Hungarian occupation. It was here that farmers brought their produce to be inspected and taxed, a quality-control spot before the people of the city could sink their teeth into those (presumably) delicious goods. Dolac? The same article suggests it was a word for a sinkhole. I’m not touching that at all. Today, Dolac Malta is all residential buildings and graffiti, with a charming post office and a horse statue. Oh, and the best espresso I’ve had in Sarajevo…

TRANSPORT

As with all the residential neighbourhoods of New Sarajevo, Dolac Malta is easily accessed from the city centre by bus and tram. Any bus heading in the direction of Dobrinja, Nedžarići, Ilidža and Hrasnica will stop here, as do trams heading out to Ilidža. Jump off by the big DM.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

BH Pošta Dolac Malta

Sarajevo attracts its fair share of brutalismaniacs (fans of brutalist architecture, it won’t catch on), but much of the attention is focused on high-rise apartment buildings, old monuments and the city centre. That’s fine and dandy, of course, but brutalismaniacs (John, it won’t catch on) looking for a deep cut should head to the humble post office in Dolac Malta. Now, don’t go there expecting to run any errands; post offices in BiH are pretty infuriating places, but do go and admire the staccato facade and unique design of the place. The post office, designed by Ahmet Kapidžić, was completed in 1976. It stands between the Church of the Holy Trinity and the Veterinary School and also has a small memorial for lives lost during the war. Zmaja od Bosne 88

Church of the Holy Trinity (Crkva Presvetog Trojstva)

Let’s take a moment to think about what could have been. The original idea for this church was to have a spacious square out in front, making it a centre of the Catholic community in Novo Sarajevo, but, obviously, that didn’t come to pass. Still, the Church of the Holy Trinity is plenty pretty, even if it is located on the side of Sarajevo’s main traffic thoroughfare. Demanded by Josip Stadler (the first archbishop of Vrhbosna) and designed by Josip Vancaš, the Neo-Romanesque delight was completed in 1906 and houses a collection of altar paintings by Oton Iveković. Three of the original stained glass windows (made by Eduard Kratzmann in Vienna) remain. The church was actually supposed to be a chapel, but was upgraded to accommodate the ever-increasing number of Catholics moving in after Austria-Hungary took over. Zmaja od Bosne 86

Evangelical Church in Dolac Malta © John Bills

Evangelical Church (Evanđeoska crkva)

Not a huge amount to write about here, but I feel like it deserves a mention, primarily because I wasn’t aware of its existence. It doesn’t look like a church, but Marka Marulića 18 is home to an Evangelical Church that goes about its Protestant ways with a modern tinge, although I’m not entirely sure what that means. All are welcome, according to the website. Marka Marulića 18, +387 33 659 215)

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine

I’m sure the Faculty of Veterinary Medicine (the only one of its kind in the country!) is very good, but this collection of tourist guides isn’t about to suggest signing up to a potential life as Dr Chinnery. Out front stands a statue of a Bosnian Mountain Horse, that proud breed of stallion that was endangered not so long ago but is experiencing something of a renaissance as a nation makes up for lost time. I’m all for statues of horses. Just keep Chinnery away… Zmaja od Bosne 90

BREWS, BOOZE, AND BITES

So yes, that espresso. When I was wandering around Dolac Malta on a breezy spring morning (I can’t remember if it was actually spring, so just go with it), I found myself searching for a cafe. I’ll say it was for coffee, but it was obviously for a toilet break, as I am an old, old man. Like all residential neighbourhoods in Sarajevo, there are plenty of options, but I went with Biblioteka (Envera Šehovića 8f, +387 33 656 565). The interior is delightful in that old literary sort of way, but the espresso was legitimately fantastic. I’ve not returned to verify my delight, primarily because I’m afraid it won’t live up to my memories. Elsewhere, Easy Bites Gastro Pub (Envera Šehovića 12, +387 62 099 150) serves up booze and bites in equal measure, and the pizzas from SOSSE (Envera Šehovića 42, +387 61 666 688) are decent. The Pub (Envera Šehovića 15, +387 62 152 152) is a pub, shockingly, but it has a two-for-one happy hour between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m., and you’ll find Nedim and me there most Saturdays. Dolac Malta is also home to Zdravo (Marka Marulića 2, +387 60 34 82 838), one of the best vegan options in the city.

SLEEPING

I don’t want to sound too lazy, but I’m not aware of any decent accommodation spots in Dolac Malta, and I’m not really sure why visitors would stay here. The neighbourhood is close to good hotels in Pofalići, and the city centre is just a short bus ride away, so plump for those instead.

DOLAC MALTA