ČELIĆ city guide — John W Bills

Welcome to Čelić, the land of strawberries, honey, more strawberries, and some more strawberries. Yes, you’re in strawberry town now, boy, and don’t you forget it. Located halfway between Tuzla and Brčko, Čelić was once a part of the neighbouring Lopare municipality but got chopped off during the most recent conflict, and the rest is history. Around 10,000 people call the municipality home, and what a beautiful place to live. The small urban centre is surrounded by lush hills and forestry, a sea of green as far as the eye can see, with a pleasant climate and fertile soil for one and all. What’s that you say? Perfect for strawberries? You could be onto something there…

TRANSPORT

Čelić has no bus station of any note to talk about, but buses do run here, and that’s better than nothing. The terminus is a small siding near the war monument and Gostilna Aščiluk, and there are direct buses from Čelić to Brčko, Tuzla, and Srebrenik. I say “buses,” I mean one a day, leaving at 4:30 p.m. I believe there is also a direct bus to Mostar, but that sounds mad. Čelić sits halfway between Brčko and Tuzla on the R458, making it an easy stop if you’re driving between those two cities. It is worth it for the strawberries alone.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

The Strawberry Monument in Čelić © John Bills

Strawberry Monument (Jagodi spomenik)

Hey, did you know that Čelić produces fabulous strawberries? You’re in strawberry town now, buddy, buckle up and prepare for the sweet charms of Virgil’s passion. I’m not entirely sure why Čelić is the centre of strawberry production in Bosnia and Herzegovina; I’m guessing it has something to do with the sun and the soil, but that is the hand we have been dealt here. On a little traffic island near the centre of town is a monument to the humble strawberry, and I’m all for quirky roadside attractions. There can’t be that many monuments of strawberries in the world, after all. The monument is the work of Alija Kahrimanović, a local sculptor who created the world’s largest strawberry with his own hands.

Čaršija Mosque (Čaršijska Džamija)

Recently restored to full power, the central mosque in Čelić boasts a charming shade of lavender that gives it an undeniably graceful air. Mosques are the most graceful of all religious buildings, after all, but I’m all for one that takes a step out of the box on the hue front, and the Čaršija Mosque does just that. The vibrant grace is accentuated by the bare stone minaret, standing like a relic from a different time, a protective grandfather next to its exuberant young relation, pointing the way to absolution. It’s a nice mosque, that’s what I’m getting at.

Humac Lake (Humačko Jezero)

Located a 30-minute drive southwest (ish) of Čelić, I don’t have a whole lot of information about Humac Lake. It is named after the nearby village, and local legend says it formed overnight after a particularly heavy rainstorm. You can fish here, although I’d double-check with the folks in Čelić before rocking up with your rod. Why does that always sound so bad?

Ruta 66

Hey, we’ve got Route 66 at home! Is that how that trend works? Something about six and seven? You’re an old man, John, but that’s not what matters here. Spanning 25km (15 or so miles) from Vražići to Begova voda near Humci, this mountain biking and nature trail is still being developed (at the time of writing), so I don’t want to assume too much. Still, this is a beautiful part of the world, so I expect big things.

Ahmet Kobić Monument in Čelić © John Bills

Ahmet Kobić Momument (Spomenik Ahmetu Kobiću Kobi)

Located on the opposite side of the road close to Motel Royal, this Yugoslav-era spomenik remains in relatively good condition, albeit in an ignored sort of fashion. The monument follows a usual pattern, with a concrete fluted pillar standing on a platform and a cube on top of it, complete with the ubiquitous red star of communism. The monument is dedicated to Ahmet Kobić, a Partizan leader from Brčko. That’s about all I’ve got about him.

Šetalište

If you’re hankering for a peaceful stroll in Čelić, make a beeline for the town’s relatively new promenade. It isn’t the longest walk in the world, but this pleasant path hugs the Čelićka River between Konzum and the old market. There isn’t a whole lot you can say about a walk, is there? After all, walks are best experienced in person, not on the page.

War Memorial

Located at the top of town near the bus stop and Aščiluk, the central war memorial in Čelić pays homage to lives lost defending the city in the most recent conflict. The monument contains a central pillar within a pseudo-dome (not unlike those seen on smaller modern mosques), a list of soldiers’ names, and a verse from the Qur’an. It is very much woven into the fabric of the town, to the point where you might not even notice the monument at first glance. It is there, I assure you.

Brdo Mosque in Čelić © Džemat Brdo // Facebook

Brdo Mosque (Džemat Brdo)

Full disclosure, I didn’t walk up to Džemat Brdo when I was in Čelić. If you’ve been reading these guides over the years, you’ll know exactly why that is. If you’re new, well, let’s just say I’m not a big fan of hills. Alas, this isn’t about me; this is about the charms of this house of spirit, a green-trimmed beauty that stands protectively over town.

Museum of Antiquities (Muzej starina u Drijenči)

Another spot I wasn’t able to get out to (I know, I know), but I’m told the private collection Ilja Filipović has put together over the years is well worth a look. Located in the village of Drijenča (20km southwest of Čelić, just off the R459), the museum is a labour of love that Filipović (now in his 80s) started collecting after seeing Germans pay close attention to old things in the ‘70s. As a result, Filipović started picking up everyday things from markets around the region, curious as to how their value (financial and intangible) would change over the years. As a bonus, Filipović is known for going full blast when it comes to decorating the house with Christmas lights. The world needs more things like this.

BREWS, BOOZE, AND BITES

As you might expect from a small town in the hills, there aren’t a whole lot of food options in Čelić proper. Not to worry, as Gostiona Aščiluk (Alije Izetbegovića 21, +387 35 660 119) ticks the required boxes, serving (slowly) the usual traditional Bosnian fare in a charming old-fashioned setting. The interior is particularly lovely, with old photographs and paintings lining the walls alongside pseudo-stained glass windows. There are also strawberry lampshades, because this is Čelić. On the subject of the humble strawberry, there are plenty of stalls in and around town to pick up some, so be sure to do so. These are the best strawberries in the country, after all. Elsewhere, there is a restaurant at the Bingo supermarket on the edge of town.

SLEEPING

Not a huge amount of accommodation options in Čelić, although that shouldn’t be a big surprise considering this is a small place out in the sticks. Motel Royal (Ekrema Agića 117, +387 61 661 646) was long the cheap and cheerful bed of choice, but it looked pretty closed last time I was around. I’m still going to run with it here, but not with a huge amount of confidence. Truth be told, Čelić is best enjoyed as a day trip from Brčko or Tuzla.

ČELIĆ