DISPATCHES
Bihać // The Whole Idea of Architecture is Permanence
The central mosque in Bihać used to be a church. Is it possible to live in the moment when one must consider the past and the future at the same time? Yes, I’m asking you.
Mostar // RAMBO
The story of a good kid from Mostar and one of the most mistreated ethnic groups on the planet. Not a cheerful read, be warned.
Janjske Otoke // Walden
One of the most beautiful places in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Janjske Otoke is beyond description. What that has to do with Henry David Thoreau, Islamic jurists and rakija, only time will tell.
Rogatica // I Always Heard Better in the Dark
The one where a strangely eloquent man gives John a magical tour of Rogatica and the surrounding areas, via horses, bridges and early ‘00s UK post-hardcore bands.
Zenica // There is an Elephant in the Room
Elephants might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about Zenica, but certain things cannot be ignored forever.
Blagaj // My Body Clock is Fast
The stunning Blagaj Tekija is where my Bosnia and Herzegovina began, although I’m not sure if my memory can be trusted. Can memory ever be trusted?
Trebinje // A Cock and Balls Bridge
The Arslanagić Bridge in Trebinje is another stone beauty, but yeah, you are never more than 10 metres away from a…
Banovići // Two Stark Parallel Lines
There are many Ćiros, but only one Ćiro. A day in Banovići spent embracing 5 year old John (hand up), with trains and excitement and trains.
Novi Travnik // When I Breathe, I’m Excellent
Some ideas are fantastic until you actually put them into action. The story of Novi Travnik, a lion’s head, and a very long walk. Yes, I know Tron isn't in Novi Travnik.
Blidinje // The Sun is in Our Eyes
When the sun burns, head to the mountains. A day in Blidinje, although could the nature park live up to incredible expectations? Spoiler, no, but it was still pretty awesome.
Sarajevo // Actually It’s Darkness
Learning a language is hard, but then so is most of life. Bosnian? It took me 13 years to start learning Bosnian. As with everything, it was too late.
Doboj // A Day in the Life of a Poolshark
Doboj’s fortress stands proud above the city, but what was life like for Ottoman soldiers here in the long ago? Don’t ask me, I’m just a writer.
Mostar // Bridge by Boring Bridge
The Stari Most might be the most marvellous, but there are plenty of other bridges in Mostar. Very important bridges, in their own ways..
Pelagićevo // I Dream a Highway
I have never been in Pelagićevo, but I will never forget how I felt when going through it. Love does funny things to a man.
Una National Park // I Am The Wedding Cake
The bears, they will get me. A day spent in Una National Park, chasing waterfalls and hiding from the inevitability of a bear-induced demise.
Konjic to Hadžići // Somewhere, the Sun Has Risen
Another morning on the rails, travelling from Konjic to Hadžići via religion, South Park and more.
Gračanica // My Father’s Son
Gračanica is famous for a leaning clock tower, but what is it that makes this Gračanica different to all the other Gračanicas?
Živinice // Tell My Imaginary Wife I Am Sorry
I spent the day in Živinice, and my imaginary wife was not happy about it.
Bijeljina // We Are One in Everlasting Peace
The dilapidated shell of a house is all that remains of Bijeljina’s Romeo and Juliet. Sounds about right.