DISPATCHES
Visoko // Clay as Oxygen; or How to Save Art from Oblivion
In a small village near Visoko, Vahid Ohran is single-handedly saving hand-crafted pottery from oblivion. Respect your craft, people.
Banja Luka // Ferhadija Mosque and a Rhythm Section
Banja Luka was built around the magnificent Ferhadija Mosque, but what does that have to do with bass, drums and a toe-tapping rhythm?
Vogošća // Tell My Imaginary Wife I Will Be Home Late
A manic piece about a night out in Vogošća, punctuated by worries about my imaginary family and a nod of respect for Hal Robson Kanu.
Ostrožac // The Berks in the Castle
The most beautiful ruined castle in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the story of Ostrožac is the story of a family of Berks.
Kakanj // Friday Night in Kakanj
Anyone can go out in Sarajevo and have a good time, but what is a Friday night like in Kakanj? You might be surprised. You might not.
Čardaci // Ponds With Charming Quackers
A beautiful etno-selo with beautiful people and beautiful quackers. What’s not to like? Let’s all go to Čardaci.
Trebinje // The View From This Tower
The most picturesque view in Bosnia and Herzegovina? The view of Trebinje’s Stari Grad from across the river is right up there.
Livno // In Search of Hajji Ahmed the Ducat Minter
The Hajji Ahmed the Ducat Minter’s Mosque is one of the finest sights in Livno, but who the heck was Hajji Ahmed the Ducat Minter? And why is that dog-bear so angry?
Neum // Why Neum is Neum
The internet has reduced it to meme status, but why does Bosnia and Herzegovina have such a small coastline? History is the reason, because history is always the reason. This is why Neum is Neum.
Čelinac // Wines of Love and Spite
A short drive from Banja Luka, the Jungić winery in Čelinac has grown into one of the finest wines in the region, proof if proof were needed that love and spite make a delicious combination.
Bihać // ‘Top Secret’ If We Critically Redefine the Term
Located just outside Bihać, Željava Air Base was another top secret military construction, provided you are willing to change your understanding of the term ‘top secret’. Secrets aren’t for sale, usually.
Mostar // Pavarotti and Music as Healing
Music is limitless. A reluctant dip in the aftermath of war to celebrate the success of the Pavarotti Music Centre in magical Mostar.
Foča // Conveniently Located in the Middle of Nowhere
There’s never a good time to break down and get stuck in the middle of nowhere, but the beauty of the Drina Valley makes a compelling case.
Jajce // A Panda and the Catacombs
The final resting place of BiH’s Alan Rickman, Jajce’s Catacombs are a curious look into the past. And isn’t that what life is? Looking into the past? For another day, another day…
Tuzla to Doboj // Neon Orange with Grey Slats
A journey on one of the last trains from Tuzla to Doboj, punctuated by stream of consciousness thought and the ubiquity of flies.
Donji Vakuf // The Bluest Blue
Incredible veal, the magic of time and the bluest blue that ever did blue. Donji Vakuf, you ain’t so bad.
Krupa na Vrbasu // Berriew in Bosnia
Berriew in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Krupa na Vrbasu is all gorgeous cascades and shimmering serenity. A bit like Berriew, maybe…
Bugojno // The Ballad of Bugojno
In the grand scheme of tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bugojno does not feature, but it manages to be immensely representative all the while.
Laktaši // When in Laktaši, Do as the Romans
When in Laktaši, do as the Romans. That means wellness, massages, relaxation and history by the bucketload.
The Mosques of Travnik // A Stunning Celebration of Colour
Travnik has the finest collection of mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and each one has its own special story to tell.