DONJI ŽABAR city guide

Interior of church in Donji Žabar © John Bills

Up the Žabar! I don’t think that sort of phrasing works in this context, but once you’ve unleashed something on the world, it can not be undone. What to say about Donji Žabar? This little municipality in the northwest of Bosnia and Herzegovina is all vast greenery, with very little in the way of urban history or present. Fewer than 4,000 people call Donji Žabar home, and I’m pretty sure the overwhelming majority of those folks work at the Agreks facility. Not familiar with Agreks? Eggs. They do eggs. Chicken eggs, not human eggs, you psychopath. What is this, Brave New World? No, it is Donji Žabar, and it is a charming little place for relaxation in nature, particularly if you are a carp fisherperson. Oh, and one of the best bus stations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, obviously.

TRANSPORT

Well, dear reader, you’ve made it. Now, there isn’t a whole lot to write home about when it comes to Donji Žabar from a tourist perspective, but the municipality does have one of the country’s most impressive bus stations. In fact, I’m going to go ahead and say that the bus station in Lončari (Lončari, +387 54 861 027) is a top three autobuska stanica in Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you’re wondering why there is this magnificent bus station in this location, you don’t need to think too hard. Lončari is an excellent final stop before leaving the country and has long been a crossroads of commerce and conversation. Thus, the station is here. The station has toilets, a restaurant, a nearby shop and bakery, a pseudo-German aesthetic, and a pharmacy. Lončari bus station, you are a delight. If you’re driving, the centre of Donji Žabar is a five-minute drive west of the station.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Church of the Protection of the Holy Mother of God (Crkva Pokrova Presvete Bogorodice)

I’m light on information about the history of the church in the centre of Donji Žabar, though I am led to believe it was consecrated as recently as 2004. It is a relatively run-of-the-mill Orthodox Church, and I mean this in a positive way, as the somewhat austere exterior gives way to a rich kaleidoscope of colour once you pass through the door. The wall paintings are exquisite, enhanced by the dripping light that flows through expertly placed windows. A nice church, to say the least.

Žabar Lake (Jezero Žabar)

This gorgeous spot just south of Donji Žabar is also known as Carp Lake, so that should give you a good idea of what to expect when you dip your rod into its welcoming waters. Wait, what? Forget that last turn of phrase and focus instead on the charms of Carp Lake, an artificial lake that came into being after gravel extraction in the 1960s. The lake is full of carp, big flippin’ carp, and experienced anglers can hope to get chunkers weighing up to 40 kilograms. That’s some big carp! I assume so, I know nothing about carp. Did you know that carp can survive for an extended time without oxygen? Now you do! Head to the official Žabar Lake website for all the information, including rules, reservations, and the rest. The location is a 20-minute walk from the municipality building and Agreks factory.

BREWS, BOOZE, AND BITES

Big Ben Lončari © Big Ben Lončari // Facebook

Unsurprisingly, the food and drink action in Donji Žabar is largely focused around Lončari bus station. The restaurant at the station is fine, but you’ll find better fare just a short walk away. Big Ben (Lončari, +387 54 861 023) is the popular coffee spot, while Vjetrenjaca (Lončari) takes care of your food requirements. Lovac (+387 65 436 509) is another decent spot, a little south towards Pelagićevo.

SLEEPING

Rooms at Lončari Bus Station © John Bills

Donji Žabar is a strange place, and I mean that in a good way. There isn’t anything to see beyond the church and the chicken factory, but the nature is spectacular, the carp are massive, and the bus station is delightful. If you’d like to stay the night, Lovac Motel and Restoran (+387 65 436 509) is your best bet, although the good people at Carp Lake might be able to help you organise some camping if you’re into that kind of thing. There also may or may not be rooms available above the bus station, which sounds like a dream. Contact the station for the intel on that front.

DONJI ŽABAR