ČELINAC city guide — John W Bills

Surrounded by (yes) verdant nature and a darling serenity, Čelinac sits on the road from Banja Luka to Kotor Varoš (or Kotor Varoš to Banja Luka, if you’re heading in that direction). History goes back a long way here (as it tends to do), with Ilyrian remains dotted around the modern municipality. The town straddles the Vrbanja and Jošavka Rivers, and the soft roll of the hills has combined with an agreeable climate to make excellent winemaking conditions. That’s about all I’ve got for this pleasant little spot in the north.

TRANSPORT

Another small town without a bus station, Čelinac serves up a couple of roadside stops for all your transport requirements. Buses run to and from Banja Luka throughout the day, with several going on to Kotor Varoš. Buy your tickets from the driver, and don’t forget to buy something from the kiosk and have a pleasant conversation with the convivial woman. The main stop is right in the centre of town, next to the World War II memorial.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Vinarija Jungić

Always good to use my own work as research material. I had a lovely morning at Vinarija Jungić near Čelinac many moons ago, back in the pre-COVID time. I was shown the cellar and the grounds, and got to enjoy a glass or two (well, a taste or two) as the expanse of the winery in Markovac stretched out in front of me. It was a gorgeous morning in a gorgeous setting, and I’m happy to presume that things are still as magnificent at Vinarija Jungić in the post-plague world. Jungić is an international wine success story, a passion project turned major business and another notch in the belt of the power of spite. For a slice of magic just outside of Banja Luka, head to Vinarija Jungić, although do give them a call first. The tavern is generally open for events, but you’ll have to get something organised before enjoying the delights. Markovac 35, +387 66 007 000

Church of the Archangel Gabriel (Pravoslavna crkva Svetog Arhangela Gavrila)

The larger of the two churches in the centre of Čelinac, the Church of the Archangel Gabriel follows the usual Orthodox stylistic notes. This means two stark towers in front of a powerful dome, with the majority white of the church interspersed with red trim. It’s a looker, for sure, and the park around it only adds to the scenery. Trg Prvog KPO

Temple of the Preservation of the Lord

I think that is the correct name of this church? Please correct me if I’m wrong, though that would be a shame, because what a bombastic name that is. The second of the two churches in the heart of Čelinac, the Temple of the Preservation of the Lord underwent a major renovation not long ago and reopened in 2023. It is also a looker, with a gorgeous red facade and a darling presentation. Petra I Karađorđevića 69

Miloš Dujić Park (Park Miloša Dujića)

I’m guessing this charming little park in the centre of Čelinac is named after the World War II Partisan and Yugoslav National Hero, but I don’t want to jump in on that presumption. The World War II monument and memorial plaque certainly suggest that, and the setting adds an air of grace in the centre of town. The monument is fairly standard, although that shouldn’t be taken as a dismissive remark toward those it remembers.

Zmajevac

There isn’t much left of Zmajevac, but it remains an important reminder of antiquity in the area. My feelings about archaeology are well documented, but this is definitely worth checking out if you are into extremely old stuff. It is widely assumed that this Illyrian fort was constructed to support the work in the forests surrounding Čelinac, whether that meant administration, security, farming, or whatever. The remains of its walls can be found just outside town, near the railway bridge, and are probably best approached from the small village of Miloševo. Stara Pruga

Stuplje Monastery

Another in the long line of gorgeous Serbian Orthodox monasteries found in this part of the country, the serene Stuplje Monastery is well worth a look if you happen to be in the Banja Luka area. The monastery sits around 25 miles east of Čelinac, sat snugly in the hills, safe from all that covet it. It hasn’t always been safe, quite the opposite. While the original dated back to the 15th century, Ottoman violence wiped it from the planet for more than 500 years. Fast forward to the 1990s, when a group of explorers happened upon ruins that suggested something more, eventually leading to the rebuilding of the monastery. It was finally reconstructed in 2008. Vijačani Gornji, +387 66 475 569

Čaršija Mosque

I do like a green trim on a mosque, so the Čaršija Mosque in Čelinac was always going to get a thumbs up from this sucka. This darling mosque was destroyed during the war and has since been rebuilt, although I’m not exactly swimming in information about it. It is located a short walk from the centre of Čelinac and is all sorts of pleasant. Petra I Karađorđevića 69

Mlinska Rijeka

That’s more like it. Located 15 or so kilometres east of Čelinac, this outdoor delight is self-styled as a “place where the tranquillity of nature, fresh air, and the murmur of the stream create the perfect atmosphere for rest, recreation, and socialising.” That just about sums up the vibes at Mlinska Rijeka, where you’ll find quality grilled meat, comfortable overnight options, numerous activity facilities (think basketball, volleyball, table tennis, the rest), and the sweeping magnificence of endless green. As in nature, obviously. The excursion site is free to visit, but you’ll need to pay for use of the pool, living room, grilling utensils, and more. Well worth it. If you’re into your grim World War II history, noted Partisan leader Mladen Stojanović was killed around here. There is a train station nearby (also called Mlinska Rijeka), although the train from Banja Luka is hella early. I’m talking 4:32 a.m., that kind of early. +387 65 227 744

Mišarica Cave (Pećina Mišarica)

Bats! Bats! Bats! If you’re into bats, this is the cave for you. Located near Bijeli Potok a few kilometres outside Čelinac (on the way to Banja Luka), Mišarica Cave is known for housing one of the largest bat colonies in the region, along with an impressive underground lair packed with supercomputers, high-tech crime laboratories, fast cars, overly English butlers, and a single Robin. No? That’s not what we’ve got here? Well, the part about the large bat colony is true, which means visiting Mišarica Cave should be done as quietly and respectfully as possible. The name? Well, “miš” is the word for “mouse,” which is almost a bat, I guess. The word for bat is “šišmiš,” which is my favourite Bosnian word. Bijeli Potok

BREWS, BOOZE, AND BITES

If you’re hungry or thirsty in Čelinac, head to the river. That isn’t so hard, as the river runs through the centre of town, but you get the point. Actually, scratch that, you should head to Laguna (Trg Prvog KPB, +387 51 552 642) for that first coffee of the day. The espresso is fantastic, and the cups are gorgeous. There are also your usual food options there later in the day. Nikos (Trg Prvog KPB) is smack-bang on the river, with gorgeous views and decent coffee, while Restoran Plaža (Kralja Petra I 40, +387 51 551 980) is here for all your meat needs. Of course, you could always go and drink crisp wines at Jungić (Markovac 35, +387 66 007 000), if you haven’t already.

SLEEPING

Not a huge amount of options in Čelinac, unfortunately, but it is what it is. Hotel Turist (Trg Prvog KPO, +387 51 551 230) is in the town centre but isn’t the most active and needs a bit of love and care. There are a couple of private apartments in town and mountain lodges in the surrounding area for hikers. Mlinska Rijeka (+387 65 227 744) is a gorgeous option if you’d like to be enveloped by nature, while Biosfera (Skatavica, +387 66 858 006) is a recommended spot for those travelling by RV.

ČELINAC